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Book chapter
The Investigation of Dye Sources in English Turkeywork Carpets by Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC–PDA) Analysis
We present a comprehensive investigation of two rare examples of turkeywork carpets held in Scottish collections: the Kinghorne Carpet at National Museums Scotland and the Chaloner Carpet in the Burrell Collection. Analysis by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC–PDA) showed that the colours used in the making of the carpets were achieved...Troalen, Lore ; Upton, Rosie ; Mulherron, Jamie ; Hulme, Alison N
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Journal article
An optimised small-scale sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis using UHPLC-PDA applied to Scottish and English Renaissance embroidery
A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis based on 96 well plates and filtration by centrifugation was developed. It requires less sample and the introduced error is decreased, making it useful for culturally important objects. A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis requiring less sample has been developed....Sandström, Edith ; Wyld, Helen ; Mackay, C Logan ; Troalen, Lore G ; Hulme, Alison N
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Book chapter
Dye sources used in English workshops: an analysis of Early tapestries from the Burrell Collection
The result of a three-year research project, this highly illustrated scholarly catalogue provides full details of place and date of production, materials and technique, provenance and exhibition history. The work will become a benchmark for future research and interpretation of tapestries of the period.Troalen, Lore ; Hulme, Alison N
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Journal article
A multi-analytical approach towards the investigation of Subarctic Athapaskan colouring of quillwork and its sensitivity to photo-degradation
Non-European dyed materials other than textiles have received comparatively little systematic analysis, this is particularly true for objects made with dyed porcupine quills. This paper presents a comprehensive study of a group of Athapaskan porcupine quill specimens collected in 1862 which are held within the collections of National Museums Scotland,...Troalen, Lore ; Röhrs, S ; Calligaro, T ; Pacheco, C ; Kunz, S …
Mordants, PIXE/RBS, Porcupine quillwork, Photo-degradation, Dyestuffs, and UPLC
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Journal article
Historical textile dyeing with Genista tinctoria L.: a comprehensive study by UPLC-MS/MS analysis
Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and...Troalen, Lore ; Phillips, Ashely S ; Peggie, David A ; Barran, Perdita E ; Hulme, Alison N
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Journal article
The natural constituents of historical textile dyes
The sources and structures of dyes used to colour Western historical textiles are described in this tutorial review. Most blue and purple colours were derived from indigo—obtained either from woad or from the indigo plant—though some other sources (e.g. shellfish and lichens) were used. Reds were often anthraquinone derivatives obtained...Ferreira, Ester S B ; Hulme, Alison N ; McNab, Hamish ; Quye, Anita