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2023
Journal article
Historical Textile Dye Analysis Using DESI-MS
Desorption electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (DESI-MS) is an ambient mass spectrometry technique that shows great potential for the analysis of fragile heritage objects in situ. This article focuses on the application of a recently built DESI source to characterize natural dyestuffs in historical textiles and a presentation of initial imaging...Sandström, Edith ; Vettorazzo, Chiara ; Mackay, C Logan ; Troalen, Lore G ; Hulme, Alison N
mass spectrometry, mass spectrometry imaging, natural dyes, non-invasive analysis, and textile
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2023
Journal article
Development and Application of Desorption Electrospray Ionization Mass Spectrometry for Historical Dye Analysis
A desorption electrospray ionization (DESI) source was built and attached to a Bruker 7T SolariX FT-ICR-MS for the in situ analysis of 14 early synthetic dyestuffs. Optimization using silk and wool cloths dyed with rhodamine B concluded that when using a commercial electrospray emitter (part number: 0601815, Bruker Daltonik), a...Sandström, Edith ; Vettorazzo, Chiara ; Mackay, C Logan ; Troalen, Lore G ; Hulme, Alison N
Solvents, Dyes and pigments, Biomimetic materials, Ions, and Fibers
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2021
Journal article
An optimised small-scale sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis using UHPLC-PDA applied to Scottish and English Renaissance embroidery
A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis based on 96 well plates and filtration by centrifugation was developed. It requires less sample and the introduced error is decreased, making it useful for culturally important objects. A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis requiring less sample has been developed....Sandström, Edith ; Wyld, Helen ; Mackay, C Logan ; Troalen, Lore G ; Hulme, Alison N
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2021
Book chapter
The Investigation of Dye Sources in English Turkeywork Carpets by Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC–PDA) Analysis
We present a comprehensive investigation of two rare examples of turkeywork carpets held in Scottish collections: the Kinghorne Carpet at National Museums Scotland and the Chaloner Carpet in the Burrell Collection. Analysis by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC–PDA) showed that the colours used in the making of the carpets were achieved...Troalen, Lore ; Upton, Rosie ; Mulherron, Jamie ; Hulme, Alison N
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2021
Journal article
Analysis of historical dyes in heritage objects, Analytical Methods Committee, AMCTB No. 101
Dye analysis can considerably enhance our understanding of the provenance of materials used in the production of historical objects. Knowledge of the individual constituents of any dyestuff not only facilitates its identification, but also provides important information regarding the rate of photo-degradation of the dye’s components; this can in turn...Troalen, Lore ; Hulme, Alison N
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Book chapter
The analytical characterisation of the main component found in logwood dyed textile samples after hydrochloric acid extraction
The triennial meetings of the ICOM Committee for Conservation (ICOM-CC) are widely regarded as the most significant global events in the heritage conservation calendar. At each Congress, the membership of the ICOM-CC are brought together to report and to review current research. The meetings offer the conservation professional a unique...Hulme, Alison N ; McNab, Hamish ; Peggie, David A ; Quye, Anita ; Vanden Berghe, I …
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Book chapter
The application of liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestries
Papers in this volume cover various aspects of the deterioration of textiles and the different scientific techniques that can be applied to investigate the characteristics of historic textiles, their fibres, dyes etc. The authors include textile, paper and painting conservators, conservation scientists, chemists, archaeologists, engineers, biochemists and a zoologist. This...Hulme, Alison N ; McNab, Hamish ; Quye, Anita ; Peggie, David A
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Journal article
Negative ion electrospray mass spectrometry of neoflavonoids
The electrospray ionisation mass spectra of the neoflavanoids brazilin and hematoxylin are reported in both their reduced (1 and 2, respectively) and their oxidised forms (3 and 4, respectively). In the reduced forms, breakdown pathways under collision induced decomposition (CID) conditions produce fragments characteristic of rings A and C; in...Hulme, Alison N ; McNab, Hamish ; Peggie, David A ; Quye, Anita
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Journal article
2',4',6'-Trihydroxy-1-methoxyacetophenone monohydrate at 150 K
The geometry of the title compound, 2-methoxy-1-(2,4,6-trihydroxyphenyl)ethanone, C9H10O5·H2O, is determined by the presence of an intramolecular hydrogen bond; the geometry of the benzene ring is distorted by a flanking carbonyl group.Ferreira, Ester S B ; Hulme, Alison N ; McNab, Hamish ; Quye, Anita ; Parsons, S
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Book chapter
Development of analytical techniques for the study of natural yellow dyes in historic textiles
Interest in all aspects of dyestuffs has grown considerably since an informal meeting of researchers twenty years ago developed into the annual meetings of Dyes in History and Archaeology, with the journal of the same name publishing a selection of papers presented. Analysis has revealed that the early 20th-century clothing...Ferreira, Ester S B ; Quye, Anita ; McNab, Hamish ; Wouters, J ; Boon, J J …
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Journal article
The natural constituents of historical textile dyes
The sources and structures of dyes used to colour Western historical textiles are described in this tutorial review. Most blue and purple colours were derived from indigo—obtained either from woad or from the indigo plant—though some other sources (e.g. shellfish and lichens) were used. Reds were often anthraquinone derivatives obtained...Ferreira, Ester S B ; Hulme, Alison N ; McNab, Hamish ; Quye, Anita
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2009
Journal article
Negative ion ESI–MS analysis of natural yellow dye flavonoids : an isotopic labelling study
Flavonoids are amongst the most commonly used natural yellow colourants in paintings, as lakes, and in historical textiles as mordant dyes. In this paper, evidence from isotopically labelled substrates is used to propose negative ion electrospray collision induced decomposition mechanisms of flavones, flavonols and an isoflavone. These mechanisms include a...McNab, Hamish ; Ferreira, Ester S B ; Hulme, Alison N ; Quye, Anita
Flavonoids , Historical textiles, Lake pigments, and Electrospray
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2017
Book chapter
Dye sources used in English workshops: an analysis of Early tapestries from the Burrell Collection
The result of a three-year research project, this highly illustrated scholarly catalogue provides full details of place and date of production, materials and technique, provenance and exhibition history. The work will become a benchmark for future research and interpretation of tapestries of the period.Troalen, Lore ; Hulme, Alison N