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2023
Book chapter
Accidental remainders: working men's fashion c.1730–1880 in National Museums Scotland
In 1999 Christopher Breward introduced The Hidden Consumer Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860-1914 with a critique of separate spheres gendering in historical fashion studies and the unquestioning absorption by menswear scholars of psychologist J. C. Flügel's 'The Great Masculine Renunciation'. 1 This theory, that men repressed fashionable engagement in...Taylor, Emily
Fashion and Textiles, working men's fashion, museum collections , menswear scholarship, dress historians, European Decorative Arts, and menswear objects
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2023
Blog post
A little cup of happiness in search of a coco chocolatero
There’s nothing quite like a cup of hot chocolate. But have you ever had one from a coconut cup? Assistant Curator Dr Emily Taylor and Professor Kathleen Kennedy explore the origins and cultural background behind a ‘little cup of happiness’ in our collections – a coconut shell made into a...Taylor, Emily ; Kennedy, Kathleen
Collections, silver, Colonial Histories And Legacies , and coconut cup
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2022
Journal article
Matriarchal Journeys: Identity and Generational Exchange in the Travels of Lady Grisell Baillie and Margaret Calderwood of Polton, <i>c.</i> 1730–1757
In 1731 Lady Grisell Baillie began a tour through Europe to Naples with her husband, two daughters, son-in-law and eldest granddaughter. Prompted by an order abroad for her son-in-law’s health, the journey to and from Naples took in cultural sites and offered unique opportunities for shopping. In 1756 Margaret Calderwood...Taylor, Emily
Scotland, women, dress, learning, shopping, and 18th century
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2020
Book chapter
Gendered making and material knowledge: Tailors and mantua-makers, c. 1760–1820
Emily Taylor The closing decades of the eighteenth century saw significant social, political and industrial changes, which were reflected in the métiers of fashion. Cotton fabrics came to dominate women’s dress, with the waistline moving to directly underneath the bust; men’s dress increasingly incorporated cotton fabrics, in heavier weights and...Taylor, Emily
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2021
Interactive resource
Fashioning the past in the present
Our panel explored how clothes tell stories on stage and screen. From how accurate costumes allow actors to connect with their characters to when it might be necessary to take liberties for entertainment.Wallis, Mark ; Romero, Stefan ; Taylor, Emily
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2021
Conference paper (unpublished)
Material constructions: making, outré and taste in late 19th century dress
Late nineteenth-century Europe and North America experienced some of the most accelerated wealth gains the modern industrial age has known. Overtly and purposefully expressed through access to and making of material culture, this paper will consider how this wealth and the luxurious transience of fashionable dress expressed the leisure, social...Taylor, Emily
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2020
Conference paper (unpublished)
Uncovering objects: the importance of context for the textiles of Tyninghame House, Scotland, circa 1700-1800
In 1977 the Earl of Haddington approached museums in Edinburgh, Scotland, with an offer of textiles and dress stored at Tyninghame House, East Lothian, south of the city. After consultation, the resulting sale saw a large collection of pieces split between the Royal Scottish Museum and the Museum of Antiquities....Taylor, Emily
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2018
Journal article
Personality in fashion: case studies of localism in Eighteenth-century Scotland
Is it obvious to state that a wearer’s fashion choices result from a complex mixture of personal, local–social and international influences? What if I say the same was true for consumers in rural eighteenth-century Scotland? Contemporary fashion communities sometimes idealize and demonize their past: the idyllic time before mass consumption,...Taylor, Emily
Scotland, fashion, localism, eighteenth-century, and dress