The Investigation of Dye Sources in English Turkeywork Carpets by Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC–PDA) Analysis

Abstract

• We present a comprehensive investigation of two rare examples of turkeywork carpets held in Scottish collections: the Kinghorne Carpet at National Museums Scotland and the Chaloner Carpet in the Burrell Collection. Analysis by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC–PDA) showed that the colours used in the making of the carpets were achieved by subtle dyeing sequences utilising a range of dye sources (cochineal, weld, dyer’s greenweed, madder, brazilwood and young fustic) combined with overdyeing processes (indigo/woad). The levels of photodegradation of the flavonoid-based yarns are also discussed.