Decoding the jewels: Renaissance jewellery in Scotland

Groundwater, Anna

Decoding the jewels: Renaissance jewellery in Scotland

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Decoding_the_Jewels.pdf

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Book

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Groundwater, Anna

ORCID

Date published

May 2024

Abstract

For the first time, National Museums Scotland’s important collection of Renaissance jewellery from Scotland is considered together alongside significant jewels from the Royal Collection and elsewhere. The book was inspired by the acquisition by NMS of the extraordinary Fettercairn Jewel: the fine iconography of this exquisitely enamelled locket held coded messages for its sixteenth-century owners, and continues to intrigue its viewers today. Renaissance jewellery like this in Scotland is particularly notable given the rare survival of such jewels from the sixteenth century. Some of these owe their survival thanks to their association with Mary, Queen of Scots. Elite Renaissance men and women commissioned, wore and gifted intricate and valuable pieces of jewellery. For most, this was not simply adornment, but used to communicate messages and display status. These were intimate personal possessions and suggest the meanings invested in them by their owners that will resonate with audiences today. Such jewels are evocative objects. This lavishly illustrated book brings together expert voices from the key Scottish collections (National Museums Scotland, National Galleries of Scotland, Royal Collection Trust) to explore the making, meaning and function of such jewellery in sixteenth-century Scotland, and features an interpretation of the Fettercairn Jewel by the jewellery historian Geoffrey Munn. It reveals hitherto under-appreciated evidence of goldsmithing in Scotland while considering significant continental influences in the design and production of jewellery. Given the ephemeral nature, and rare survival of Renaissance jewellery, its authors also suggest alternative ways of tracing the gems that have gone, in the portraits and inventories of Scottish men and women.