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Book chapter
Accidental remainders: working men's fashion c.1730–1880 in National Museums Scotland
In 1999 Christopher Breward introduced The Hidden Consumer Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860-1914 with a critique of separate spheres gendering in historical fashion studies and the unquestioning absorption by menswear scholars of psychologist J. C. Flügel's 'The Great Masculine Renunciation'. 1 This theory, that men repressed fashionable engagement in...Taylor, Emily
Fashion and Textiles, working men's fashion, museum collections , menswear scholarship, dress historians, European Decorative Arts, and menswear objects
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Book chapter
The Tootal paisley scarf
I’m not sure when I took it, without permission, from my father’s wardrobe. It must have been around 1982, my final year as a fifth-former at a Comprehensive School in Yeovil, Somerset, during a summer of O-Level exam results, teenage parties and those first tentative explorations in establishing a personal...Breward, Christopher
Tootal scarf, textile production, male dress, and paisley pattern
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Book chapter
Social control in Middle Kingdom Egypt: Embodied experience and symbolic violence
Pharaonic Egypt’s highly unequal social organisation was maintained not only through the use of physical coercion, but also through embodied daily practice and symbolic violence (Bourdieu). The control of space and physical interactions influenced how ancient Egyptians saw themselves in relation to the rest of society. This paper explores Middle...Maitland, Margaret
Submission, Deviance, Middle Kingdom art and texts, Social distancing, and Punishment
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Book chapter
The Longevity Legacy: The Challenges of Old Animals in Zoos
As knowledge of husbandry has improved with the keeping of wild animals in zoos over the last 200 years, so longevity has also improved, bringing with it challenges owing to the development of pathologies associated with ageing. In this chapter, the principal skeletal and dental pathologies of aged zoo mammals...Kitchener, Andrew C
Pathology , Euthanasia, Enrichment, Teeth, Skeleton , Ageing, and Behaviour
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Book chapter
Material worlds
This chapter considers material culture themes beyond any single region or country in order to look at recurring problems and possibilities across the European Iron Age. Often these are analogies (such as problems of taphonomic bias) rather than direct linkages, but large-scale issues in European prehistory are also considered, such...Hunter, Fraser
technological innovation, material culture, taphonomic bias, decoration, and Mediterranean links
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Book chapter
Selective fragmentation. Exploring the treatment of metalwork across time and space in Bronze Age Britain
During the Bronze Age (BA), thousands of metal tools, weapons and ornaments were buried across Europe in graves, settlements, single finds and hoards in the natural landscape. Many show evidence of deliberate treatment and structured and selective deposition. The concept of selective deposition (i.e. the decision to deposit objects in...Knight, Matthew G
Bronze Age, metal deposition, selective fragmentation practice, and Britain
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Book chapter
“A Crown of Everlasting Glory”: The Afterlife of Maria Clementina Sobieska in Material and Visual Culture
Maria Clementina Sobieska was the last widely recognised Stuart queen, albeit in exile, and mother to the final generation of the Stuart dynasty. Examining the material and visual culture surrounding her funeral and afterlife, this chapter reinstates Clementina in Jacobite and Stuart history. It also considers the papal role in...Vullinghs, Georgia
Jacobites, visual culture, material culture, Royal funerals, Queenship, and Stuarts
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Book chapter
Global History in the History of Fashion
Over the twentieth century, multi-disciplinary academic studies addressed dress practice and bodily adornment from a variety of perspectives, assessing the question of fashion, though few communities outside the West were awarded this term until the past generation. Anthropologists took an ethnographic stance, with works that from the late 1980s became...Breward, Christopher ; Lemire, Beverly ; Riello, Giorgio
dress practice , ethnographic approach, fashion history, bodily adornment , global, and clothing
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Book chapter
Mathematical examiners at Trinity House: teaching and examining mathematics for navigation in London during the long eighteenth century
The early years of the Royal Mathematical School (f. 1673), and its relationship with Trinity House, have been explored in relation to the teaching and examining of mathematics for navigation. However, there has been confusion over who carried out the examinations and little or no consideration of the role of...Higgitt, Rebekah
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Book chapter
Introduction: decoding jewels in Renaissance Scotland
The classic Roman god Mercury strides purposefully from left to right across a gold locket, but his specific intention is not immediately clear (fig.1). However, to the sixteenth-century maker, buyer and recipient of this locket, now known as the Fettercairn jewel, the significance of Mercury's journey will have been understood....Groundwater, Anna
Renaissance , Mary Queen of Scots, material culture , Scottish history , jewellery history , Stuarts, art history, and objects
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