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Book chapter
Mathematical examiners at Trinity House: teaching and examining mathematics for navigation in London during the long eighteenth century
The early years of the Royal Mathematical School (f. 1673), and its relationship with Trinity House, have been explored in relation to the teaching and examining of mathematics for navigation. However, there has been confusion over who carried out the examinations and little or no consideration of the role of...Higgitt, Rebekah
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Book chapter
Introduction: decoding jewels in Renaissance Scotland
The classic Roman god Mercury strides purposefully from left to right across a gold locket, but his specific intention is not immediately clear (fig.1). However, to the sixteenth-century maker, buyer and recipient of this locket, now known as the Fettercairn jewel, the significance of Mercury's journey will have been understood....Groundwater, Anna
Renaissance , Mary Queen of Scots, material culture , Scottish history , jewellery history , Stuarts, art history, and objects
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Book chapter
Foreword
At National Museums Scotland we have a small but stellar collection of Renaissance jewellery associated with Scotland in the sixteenth century. Highlights of this collection include the pearl- encrusted gold locket and fillgree bead necklace of the Penicuk Jewels, associated with Mary, Queen of Scots, and the finely enamelled Fettercairn...Alberti, S J M M
Scottish history, jewellery history, Stuarts, and Renaissance
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Book chapter
The Mystery of the Fettercairn Jewel
When the Fettercairn Jewel was discovered wrapped in paper at the back of a drawer at Fettercairn House, Aberdeenshire, in 2017. It was quickly recognised as an astounding piece of late sixteenth-century jewellery. But with little recorded provenance, and no obvious clues to its early history, it posed many questions.Wyld, Helen
Renaissance, material culture, Scottish history, art history, and jewellery history
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Book chapter
Tracing royal Stewart jewels in the archives
Imagine the impact of Mary Queen of Scots walking into the room. At nearly six feet tall, and dressed into the finest jewels, fashion and fabrics available, she will have impressed. That, after all, was the intended effect: Mary used the way she appeared to command respect, denote her regal...Groundwater, Anna
Renaissance , material culture , Scottish history , jewellery history , Mary Queen of Scots , art history, objects, and Stuarts
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Book chapter
'The worked shale and related materials' In: Strachan, David, Cook, Martin and McLaren, Dawn 'Three Forts on the Tay: Excavations at Moncreiffe, Moredun and Abernethy, Perth and Kinross 2014–17'
Two items in black organic-rich stone were recovered from Moncreiffe, while a larger assemblage of 21 items was recovered from Moredun (Chapter 4.7). Both assemblages include a range of unfinished objects, indicating elements of craft production at both sites. A more detailed discussion of the sources of the raw material,...Hunter, Fraser
craft production, archaeological excavations, Montcrieffe fort, worked shale, bangle fragment, and bead
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Book chapter
'The worked shale and related materials' In: Strachan, David, Cook, Martin and McLaren, Dawn 'Three Forts on the Tay: Excavations at Moncreiffe, Moredun and Abernethy, Perth and Kinross 2014–17'
Excavations recovered a comprehensive assemblage of 21 items from Moredun, including a range of unfinished material, indicating elements of craft production, while in addition, an unfinished bangle fragment was previously recovered from the hilltop as a stray find.Hunter, Fraser
craft production, archaeological excavations , assemblage, Moredun excavations, and bangle fragment
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Book chapter
Measurement Standards and Double Standards Reassessing Charles Piazzi Smyth’s Egyptological Reputation
In 1864–5, the Astronomer Royal for Scotland, Charles Piazzi Smyth (1819–1900),3 his wife Jessie (1812–1896),4 and a small team of Egyptian archaeological workers conducted an extensive survey of the Great Pyramid of Giza. Smyth had become interested in the structure as he read John Taylor’s The Great Pyramid: Why Was... -
Book chapter
Figures in museum display: the creation and use of a little person mannequin at National Museums Scotland
In 2019, National Museums Scotland (NMS) presented the temporary exhibition Body Beautiful: Diversity on the Cat walk. It addressed broad issues of diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry, organized around five categories: ‘Age’, ‘Disability’, ‘LGBTQIA+’, ‘Race’ and ‘Size’. Integral to the mannequin brief was challenging perceptions of the body...McLeod, Miriam ; Ripley, Georgina
mannequin, representation, Body Beautiful: Diversity on the Catwalk, inclusivity, fashion industry, exhibition, and diversity
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Book chapter
"To no one Nation has been given the Monopoly of Genius" : Multiple Nationalisms at the National Museum of Scotland, a Director’s View
In 1857, George Wilson, Regius Professor of Science and Technology at the University of Edinburgh,laid out a vision for a new museum under his directorship, the Industrial Museum (today the National Museum) of Scotland.Though formed in the context of Britain’s imperial ambitions, the institution Wilson envisaged also seemed to speak...Breward, Christopher
Scotland, culture, philosophy, George Wilson, colonialism , museum vision, imperialism, and national museums
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Book chapter
‘Found in store’: Working with source communities and difficult objects at Durham University’s Oriental Museum
Rachel Barclay Lauren Barnes Gillian Ramsay Craig Barclay Helen Armstrong Durham University’s Oriental Museum is often described as a ‘hidden gem’. Opened in 1960, today it is home to world-class collections of more than 35,000 objects from across North Africa and Asia. Originally envisioned as a teaching and research resource...Barclay, Rachel ; Barnes, Lauren ; Ramsay, Gillian ; Barclay, Craig ; Armstrong, Helen
Colonialism, Asia, Durham University , Africa , Oriental Museum, and collections
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Book chapter
Stone tools
The excavations at Lower Callerton revealed a multiphase Iron Age settlement consisting of 53 structures, multiple enclosures and linear boundaries which extended beyond the excavated area (Fig. 4.1). The activity was concentrated within Area 2, which measured c. 4.6 ha, with the removal of the topsoil revealing a settlement extending...Hunter, Fraser
Lower Callerton, excavations, settlement, Iron Age , and Stone tools
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Book chapter
A landscape of deposition
The Mount's Bay area has long been associated in the archaeological literature with the exchange of copper and tin. St Michael's Mount, in particular, has often been suggested to be the site of Ictis recorded by Pytheas the Greek in the 4th century BC (Hencken 1932, 158-188; Herring 2000, 116-118;...Knight, Matthew G
metalwork deposition, Bronze Age hoards, Archaeology, and exchange
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Book chapter
Lithics
Evidence for earlier prehistoric activity in the vicinity of Iron Age settlements is common in the north-east region, and the sites of Morley Hill and Lower Callerton are no exceptions. Pre-Iron Age activity tends to be scattered and smaller in scale, often appearing as a series of discrete pits, only...Anderson-Whymark, Hugo
Lithics, Mesolithic , Lower Callerton, Morley Hill , Bronze Age, Neolithic, and earlier prehistory
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Book chapter
The Matter of Slavery at National Museums Scotland
In the ‘Industry and Empire’ gallery of the National Museum of Scotland (NMS) in Edinburgh sits a gleaming cup of white porcelain, resting on its saucer. Text rendered in black lettering around the body of the cup reads: ‘and so it was that those long sea/journeys became yonder awa awa’....Laurenson, Sarah
Colonial Histories and Legacies, Slavery, Scotland, and Industry and Empire
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Book chapter
New Kingdom jewellery
The technological study of a small number of objects produced mainly in the 18th Dynasty provides new data that can be related, typologically or geographically, to earlier studied objects. The analysis of the jewellery assemblage from tomb 296 at Riqqa, and of earrings from different sites, provides information on the...Guerra, Maria F ; Troalen, Lore G ; La Niece, Susan ; Meeks, Nigel ; Quirke, Stephen …
jewellery assemblage analysis, Qurna burial, 18th Dynasty, material culture, and tomb 296 at Riqqa
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Book chapter
Second Intermediate Period jewellery
This chapter presents the technological study of the jewellery excavated at Qurna, together with a few additional examples of gold pieces that are either well contextualized, or that can be attributed to the Second Intermediate Period and early 18th Dynasty based on their inscriptions. These parallels include objects that are...Guerra, Maria F ; Troalen, Lore G ; Tate, James ; La Niece, Susan ; Miniaci, Gianluca …
Second Intermediate Period, technological study, 18th Dynasty, jewellery, and Qurna excavations
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Book chapter
Analytical approaches to Egyptian goldwork
The structure and composition of ancient gold objects retain information about their long history of manufacture, from the exploitation of the ore to the finishing touches, as well as evidence of their use, deposition, and degradation. By developing an efficient analytical strategy, it is possible to retrieve that information. This...Guerra, Maria F ; Troalen, Lore G ; Martinón-Torres, Marcos ; Lemasson, Quentin ; Moignard, Brice …
Egyptian jewellery, analytical results, composition, ancient gold objects, and structure
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Book chapter
Middle Kingdom jewellery
The outstanding Middle Kingdom jewellery, entirely or partially made in cloisonné work, and often containing colourful beads of different materials to produce amazing polychrome effects and surface textures, also includes the earliest examples in Egypt of granulation. Many of these techniques are illustrated through the study of gold objects excavated...Guerra, Maria F ; Troalen, Lore G ; Maitland, Margaret ; Ponting, Matthew ; Price, Campbell …
excavations, granulation, gold , Middle Kingdom jewellery, and cloisonné work
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Book chapter
Global History in the History of Fashion
Over the twentieth century, multi-disciplinary academic studies addressed dress practice and bodily adornment from a variety of perspectives, assessing the question of fashion, though few communities outside the West were awarded this term until the past generation. Anthropologists took an ethnographic stance, with works that from the late 1980s became...Breward, Christopher ; Lemire, Beverly ; Riello, Giorgio
costume, bodily adornment, fashion history, and dress practice
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Book chapter
Fashionable Masculinities in England and Beyond
The design, production, selling, and wearing of men’s clothing through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has had a significant impact on the visual culture and social experience of the modern world. It has also determined many of the underlying influences that have contributed to the development and expansion of...Breward, Christopher
visual culture, social experience, masculine consumption, and male clothing
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Book chapter
Towards an Ontology of Pre-20th Century Scientific Instrument Types
This paper introduces the project Tools of Knowledge: Modelling the Scientific Instrument Trade, 1550–1914, and focuses on our ongoing development of an ontology to represent knowledge about scientific instrument types produced during this period. After a brief introduction, we discuss the background to the project and a summary of previous...Middle, Sarah ; Butterworth, Alex
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Book chapter
Building a dual dataset of text- and image-grounded conversations and summarisation in Gàidhlig (Scottish Gaelic)
Gàidhlig (Scottish Gaelic; gd) is spoken by about 57k people in Scotland,1 but remains an under-resourced language with respect to natural language processing in general and natural language generation (NLG) in particular. To address this gap, we developed the first datasets for Scottish Gaelic NLG, collecting both conversational and summarisation... -
Book chapter
Vers une histoire globale de la mode. Un debat entre BuYun Chen, Beverly Lemire et Lucy Norris
Perspective interroge la mode en tant que pratique rhétorique, artistique et culturelle. Historiens de l’art, de la mode et archéologues, mais aussi designers et conservateurs se penchent sur les manières dont le vêtement et la parure ont servi à exprimer le lien des individus aux identités individuelles et collectives qui...Breward, Christopher ; Riello, Giorgio
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Book chapter
'Neolithic' and 'Chalolithic?/Early Bronze Period' In: Boughey, Keith, A Tale of Two Collectors: The Lithic Collections of Geoffrey Taylor and David Heys (with particular reference to the county of Yorkshire)
The book begins with brief biographies of the two collectors and outlines the areas in which they collected, principally the North York Moors, and their method of working, before attempting to set their work into its wider prehistoric context. It then explains how the over 18,000 worked pieces in the...Sheridan, J A
Flint, Jet, North York Moors, Neolithic, Lithics, and Bronze Age
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Book chapter
Fashionable Masculinities in England and Beyond
The design, production, selling, and wearing of men’s clothing through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has had a significant impact on the visual culture and social experience of the modern world. It has also determined many of the underlying influences that have contributed to the development and expansion of...Breward, Christopher
masculine consumption, visual culture , male clothing , and social experience
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Book chapter
'Discoidal knives' In: Boughey, Keith, A Tale of Two Collectors: The Lithic Collections of Geoffrey Taylor and David Heys (with particular reference to the county of Yorkshire)
The book begins with brief biographies of the two collectors and outlines the areas in which they collected, principally the North York Moors, and their method of working, before attempting to set their work into its wider prehistoric context. It then explains how the over 18,000 worked pieces in the...Boughey, Keith ; Sheridan, J A
Flint , Neolithic, Lithics , Jet , and Bronze Age
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Book chapter
Accidental remainders: working men's fashion c.1730–1880 in National Museums Scotland
In 1999 Christopher Breward introduced The Hidden Consumer Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860-1914 with a critique of separate spheres gendering in historical fashion studies and the unquestioning absorption by menswear scholars of psychologist J. C. Flügel's 'The Great Masculine Renunciation'. 1 This theory, that men repressed fashionable engagement in...Taylor, Emily
Fashion and Textiles, working men's fashion, museum collections , menswear scholarship, dress historians, European Decorative Arts, and menswear objects
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Book chapter
The Tootal paisley scarf
I’m not sure when I took it, without permission, from my father’s wardrobe. It must have been around 1982, my final year as a fifth-former at a Comprehensive School in Yeovil, Somerset, during a summer of O-Level exam results, teenage parties and those first tentative explorations in establishing a personal...Breward, Christopher
Tootal scarf, textile production, male dress, and paisley pattern
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Book chapter
Social control in Middle Kingdom Egypt: Embodied experience and symbolic violence
Pharaonic Egypt’s highly unequal social organisation was maintained not only through the use of physical coercion, but also through embodied daily practice and symbolic violence (Bourdieu). The control of space and physical interactions influenced how ancient Egyptians saw themselves in relation to the rest of society. This paper explores Middle...Maitland, Margaret
Submission, Deviance, Middle Kingdom art and texts, Social distancing, and Punishment
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Book chapter
The Longevity Legacy: The Challenges of Old Animals in Zoos
As knowledge of husbandry has improved with the keeping of wild animals in zoos over the last 200 years, so longevity has also improved, bringing with it challenges owing to the development of pathologies associated with ageing. In this chapter, the principal skeletal and dental pathologies of aged zoo mammals...Kitchener, Andrew C
Pathology , Euthanasia, Enrichment, Teeth, Skeleton , Ageing, and Behaviour
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Book chapter
Material worlds
This chapter considers material culture themes beyond any single region or country in order to look at recurring problems and possibilities across the European Iron Age. Often these are analogies (such as problems of taphonomic bias) rather than direct linkages, but large-scale issues in European prehistory are also considered, such...Hunter, Fraser
technological innovation, material culture, taphonomic bias, decoration, and Mediterranean links
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Book chapter
Selective fragmentation. Exploring the treatment of metalwork across time and space in Bronze Age Britain
During the Bronze Age (BA), thousands of metal tools, weapons and ornaments were buried across Europe in graves, settlements, single finds and hoards in the natural landscape. Many show evidence of deliberate treatment and structured and selective deposition. The concept of selective deposition (i.e. the decision to deposit objects in...Knight, Matthew G
Bronze Age, metal deposition, selective fragmentation practice, and Britain
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Book chapter
“A Crown of Everlasting Glory”: The Afterlife of Maria Clementina Sobieska in Material and Visual Culture
Maria Clementina Sobieska was the last widely recognised Stuart queen, albeit in exile, and mother to the final generation of the Stuart dynasty. Examining the material and visual culture surrounding her funeral and afterlife, this chapter reinstates Clementina in Jacobite and Stuart history. It also considers the papal role in...Vullinghs, Georgia
Jacobites, visual culture, material culture, Royal funerals, Queenship, and Stuarts
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Book chapter
Global History in the History of Fashion
Over the twentieth century, multi-disciplinary academic studies addressed dress practice and bodily adornment from a variety of perspectives, assessing the question of fashion, though few communities outside the West were awarded this term until the past generation. Anthropologists took an ethnographic stance, with works that from the late 1980s became...Breward, Christopher ; Lemire, Beverly ; Riello, Giorgio
dress practice , ethnographic approach, fashion history, bodily adornment , global, and clothing
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Book chapter
The goldworking of Riqqa, Egypt: Analysis and comparison between the 12th and 18th dynasties, in Quiles
The first Science for Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technologies conference was held under the auspices of His Excellency Pr. Khaled el-Enany at the Manial Palace Museum in Cairo, from 4 to 6 November 2017. Its aim was to provide a venue at which specialists in the application of physical and...Troalen, Lore ; Guerra, Maria Filomena ; Maitland, Margaret ; Ponting, Matthew ; Price, Campbell
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Book chapter
From colour to nanolayers: corrosion in Egyptian goldwork
The first Science for Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technologies conference was held under the auspices of His Excellency Pr. Khaled el-Enany at the Manial Palace Museum in Cairo, from 4 to 6 November 2017. Its aim was to provide a venue at which specialists in the application of physical and...Tissot, Isabel ; Troalen, Lore ; Guerra, Maria Filomena
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Book chapter
The burial of the “Qurna Queen”
The personal adornments and objects from the burial of Queen Ahhotep belong to one of the most spectacular finds from Ancient Egypt. The history of their discovery is still a mystery. Even the identity of the queen is not fully solved. The twelve essays in this volume tackle different problems...Maitland, Margaret ; Potter, Daniel M ; Troalen, Lore
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Book chapter
Introduction
The period c.1745-1845 was a revolutionary chapter in the history of Highland dress. With the advent of the European Romantic movement, this once regional costume was revived and reinvented to reflect the changing times and preoccupations of its wearers. Associated with the warrior culture of Gaelic society, by the close...Waine, Rosie
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Book chapter
A re-discovered early Roman-era mummy shroud from the Rhind tomb at Thebes
The first Science for Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technologies conference was held under the auspices of His Excellency Pr. Khaled el-Enany at the Manial Palace Museum in Cairo, from 4 to 6 November 2017. Its aim was to provide a venue at which specialists in the application of physical and...Maitland, Margaret ; Ross, Jennifer ; Troalen, Lore
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Book chapter
The King and I: Commemorating the privilege of royal statue dedication in Ramesside Deir El-Medina
It is generally understood that in ancient Egyptian statuary, “a private person is never sculpted together with the king”. However, an unusual small limestone statue in the collections of National Museums Scotland contradicts this understanding, depicting a man kneeling to offer a statue of a king (NMS A.1956.139). Clearly Ramesside...Maitland, Margaret
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Book chapter
The Wroot Neolithic jadeitite axehead
Sheridan, J A
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Book chapter
Foreword
The period c.1745-1845 was a revolutionary chapter in the history of Highland dress. With the advent of the European Romantic movement, this once regional costume was revived and reinvented to reflect the changing times and preoccupations of its wearers. Associated with the warrior culture of Gaelic society, by the close...Breward, Christopher
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Book chapter
The suit, perfection for purpose
Fashion has been discussed, questioned, criticised and admired for centuries, often without the historical knowledge of how or why it takes the form it does. This applies above all to menswear, since fashion has often been associated primarily with women’s fashion. In historical terms, fashion from the 18th century onwards...Breward, Christopher
masculinity, mens fashion history, fashion culture, fashion history, cultural anthropology , fashion, and menswear
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Book chapter
Monochrome Man
At a moment of unprecedented creativity in men’s fashion, and continuing reflections on gender, contemporary designers are questioning established forms, seeking to liberate wearers from traditional models of masculine dress. This book combines fashion with artistic and broader cultural histories – looking at the designers, tailors and artists who have... -
Book chapter
AA: Vessel fragments not allocated to types
Among the material not catalogued by Curl was a box of 'scrap' (see Chapter 31). It is presented here in the following categories: decorated elements; other unusual elements; feature sherds (rims, base); fragments with lathe grooves; body sherds and non-diagnostic material.Hunter, Fraser